Tarantula Care & Guide
Pretty much anything they can overpower! Most thrive on a diet of insects, such as crickets, roaches, grasshoppers, etc. Some tarantulas will eat larger prey, such as frogs, small lizards, and even mice. In captivity, however, crickets and roaches will do just fine!
I decided to compile a list frequently asked questions that we get from kids and adults alike. Many of these questions center around some of the big misconceptions that are out there regarding tarantulas. Hopefully these will help dispel some things that you may be unsure of.
Tarantulas are large, hairy spiders that have been often been vilified by stories in books, movies, and urban legends. Let’s take a look at these animals through the lens of truth, rather than fiction, as see if we can’t help improve their image.
First, what makes a spider a tarantula? The descriptors “large” and “hairy” don’t quite cover it, as their are many spiders in the world that fit this description that are not tarantulas. (Some people find a wolf spider in their house and think they have found a young tarantula!) For one, all tarantulas have eight eyes, while some other spiders can have six. Tarantulas have two retractable claws at the end of their legs, like a cat. The fangs of the tarantula are “hinged” to move vertically (up and down), while the fangs of other spiders move horizontally. Take these characteristics, and cover them in hair, and you have the basic qualifications of a tarantula.
Let’s take a look at the parts of the tarantula. That big, round, hair covered back-side (sometimes resembling a kiwi) is the abdomen. Some tarantulas, like those living in the Americas, will flick their hairs when they become agitated or threatened. This can cause some tarantulas to have bald patches on their abdomen. (The hair does grow back with the next shedding of their exoskeleton.)
Wild-caught Aphonopelma chalcodes (Mexican Blond).
Tarantulas, like all spiders, have eight legs. Often, people will claim to see ten legs, but they are mistakenly counting the tarantulas pedipalps. The pedipalps look a lot like two miniature versions of the spiders other legs. The spider uses these to help capture and hold prey. If you wanted to, you could call them the tarantula’s hands. (If you want to, though. Nobody is forcing you into anything!)
The “body” of the tarantula, above the abdomen, is known as the cephalothorax. The round portion on top of the tarantula, where the eyes are located, is known as the carapace. On the picture below, you can see the tarantula’s carapace outlined with orange hairs. The cluster of eyes can be seen towards the bottom-right of the carapace (in this photo), almost the very center of the photo. Despite having eight eyes, the tarantula has poor vision!
Here is a close-up of a Brachypelma smithi (Mexican Redknee).
On the front of the tarantula, below the eyes, are the spider’s chelicerae. I have heard the chelicerae as looking like a large mustache on the spider. The real action, however, is what is hinged on the bottom/underside of the chelicerae – the tarantula’s fangs. Each fang acts like a syringe, injecting the spider’s prey with venom and allowing the tarantula to consume it.
The fangs of a Grammostola aureostriata (Chaco Goldenknee).
Tarantulas grow by casting off their exoskeleton in a process called molting. While this is a vital part of life for the tarantula, it is also one that can hold unforseen problems. First and foremost, for tarantulas in the wild, they are extremely vulnerable during this process. If the spider is not able to completely free itself from the exoskeleton, the spider may lose a limb…or even die. Young spiders molt more often than adults do, as adults average approximately one molt per year.
A Grammostola rosea (Chilean Rose Hair) molting.
The great thing about this question is that I am often asked this while I have a tarantula crawling on my hand. Now, I like some excitement in my life, but putting myself at risk is not my idea of fun. If tarantulas were dangerous, I would definitely not be impressing anyone by holding one.
First of all, if you were bitten by a tarantula (unprovoked), then congratulations – you are now a member in a very elite club. If you were bitten by a tarantula, there is a good chance that very little venom (if any) was injected. As far as being “poisonous,” all spiders, including tarantulas, have venom. While some tarantulas can possess more powerful venom than others, the reaction from a “full bite” would probably result in pain, swelling, cramping, etc., but not death.
There are a few species of tarantula that will grow to be 9 or 10 inches, but the largest on record is the Theraphosa blondi (Goliath Birdeater), which can reach approximately one foot (12 inches) in length.
This, of course, is asked in relation to a tarantula biting a person. I don’t like to mislead people and say that tarantulas do not, or can not bite. We know that crickets and roaches would tell you that yes, they do bite! I try to break tarantulas down into certain categories to try and help people understand.
Since there are close to 800 species of tarantulas in the world, and they come from almost every part of the planet, there are differences seen throughout them. Most tarantulas, as a general rule, will try other methods of defense prior to biting (such as running away or flicking hairs). Many tarantulas just seem to have such a docile temperament that bites are a rare occurance. Then there are other tarantulas that are more aggressive and should never be handled, as they may have a tendancy to use their fangs first and ask questions later.
No, I haven’t. (Nor was I ever stung when I kept scorpions.) There are two reasons for this. First of all, as mentioned above, there are some species that are notoriously docile, and some that are aggressive. Guess which ones I handle and which ones I don’t? The other reason is that I take the time to read the body language of the spider. I use the analogy of a dog. If you came across a dog that was growling and snarling at you, would you reach out and give it a pat on the head? Probably not. Likewise, spiders have ways of telling you that it would be best for you to keep your distance. I will say that the tarantula keepers that I have talked to that have been bitten will readily admit that it was their fault – that they were careless about something they did.
This does not mean, “Give me a hug!”
Ahhh, you’ve been watching “Arachnophobia,” haven’t you? Granted, I’ve heard the rumors that tarantulas can jump a few feet in the air long before that movie came out. The biggest problem is that tarantulas are very fragile, and a fall from even a few inches could injure or kill the spider. So why would a tarantula take such a dangerous leap? That is assuming that they physically CAN leap that far. Most tarantulas will “pounce” on their prey, moving a half-inch to a couple of inches forward.
With that said, there are arboreal species (tree dwellers) that can and will jump from branch to branch if necessary. If they live in trees over water, such as a brook or stream, they have been known to jump out of the tree and into the water to avoid an approaching predator. People that keep some of these arboreal species, such as the common pink toe tarantula (Avicularia avicularia), report that they will take a leap from your hand onto your chest or face – or unfortunately, the floor. (That is why you need to be careful when handling these guys!)
Tarantulas do not make the “typical” spider web that other spiders do. Tarantulas do produce silk, however, and they will use this silk for many different things. Some will put a layer of silk on the floor of their burrow to keep it clean, and free from ants. (Like wall to wall carpeting!) Many tarantulas will also have the entrance of their burrow lined with fine silk to notify them of visiting prey items. Others will actually built a hammock-like “fort” out of thick silk, which they will lay in during the day.
The Birthing of P. subfusca Spiderlings
The “miracle of birth” is no less miraculous when referring to our eight legged friends. I came across these photographs online and wanted very much to share them with you here. They are posted here with permission from the photographer, Pascal Lesellier (FRANCE).
The female tarantula will create an eggsac containing hundreds of tiny eggs, and guard the sac until the little ones hatch. Here we see mama Poecilotheria subfusca guarding her sac, which appears as a white ball between her front legs, and underneath her pedipalps.
Next we see that the spiders have hatched. They still look like the eggs they came from, with the exception of little legs sticking out. (Eggs with legs, their often called.)
The spiderlings begin to grow…
…molt and grow…
On the front of the tarantula, below the eyes, are the spider’s chelicerae. I have heard the chelicerae as looking like a large mustache on the spider. The real action, however, is what is hinged on the bottom/underside of the chelicerae – the tarantula’s fangs. Each fang acts like a syringe, injecting the spider’s prey with venom and allowing the tarantula to consume it.
Tarantulas grow by casting off their exoskeleton in a process called molting. While this is a vital part of life for the tarantula, it is also one that can hold unforseen problems. First and foremost, for tarantulas in the wild, they are extremely vulnerable during this process. If the spider is not able to completely free itself from the exoskeleton, the spider may lose a limb…or even die. Young spiders molt more often than adults do, as adults average approximately one molt per year.
Molt from an Aphonopelma seemanni.
Determining the sex of a tarantula can be one of those “can of worms” topics among some tarantula enthusiasts. Some say you can tell by looking at certain external features of the spider, but the most accurate method (and I think most would agree with this) is by looking at the molted (shed) skin of the tarantula.
Female tarantulas have small organs that store sperm after they have mated with a male. These organs are called spermathecae. If the molt of the spider is big enough (a magnifying glass or microscope may be needed), you can check for the presence of the old spermathecae – now shed by the spider. From there, it is simple:
Spermathecae = Female Tarantula
No Spermathecae = Male Tarantula
What you are looking at here is the inside of the abdomen portion of the tarantula’s molt. The four white patches are the spider’s booklungs. (They are folds of tissue that filter air, allowing the animal to breath.) In between the top pair of booklungs, you will see a groove, or slit. (It almost looks like a pair of lips.) Just above that grove, although difficult to see, is a flap with two brown spermathecae. (If you see the slit as a mouth, then the spermathecae look like the eyes.)
This Aphonopelma seemanni is a female.
During the course of visiting folks with our eight legged friends, we often get asked questions about obtaining a pet tarantula. So I added this section to help answer some of these what, where, and why questions about getting your first pet tarantula.
WHY? The first question the all prospective pet owners need to ask themselves is “why do I want this animal?” With the increase in popularity that invertebrates like tarantulas and scorpions have seen in the pet trade, “why” is a pretty rational question. If your first answer is, “for the shock value of having a giant spider,” do the hobby a favor and think twice. That doesn’t mean it is wrong to enjoy the looks that people give you when you tell them about the tarantula living in your house, but it probably shouldn’t be the main reason. These creatures are quite remarkable, as you will soon find out shortly after purchasing your first!
WHERE? The first place you might want to look, especially for your first spider, is a privately owned local pet shop. Many of these will have a selection of invertebrates for sale that you can browse. Look to see if the animal appears healthy, has water available (not a wet sponge), a place to hide, etc. One good indication that the pet shop is knowledgeable is if they know the scientific names of the tarantulas. Here are a couple of true phone conversations I have had with prospective pet shops…
“ABC Pets. May I help you?”
“I understand you sell tarantulas. I am checking to see if you have any Grammostola species in the shop.”
“Uhhh…what specificially are you looking for?”
“I’m looking for either an aureostriata or pulchra.”
“I’m sorry, I don’t know what those are.”
“They may be labeled Chaco Golden Knee and Brazilian Black.”
“We have some dark tarantulas; mostly black.”
I said “thank you” and that was that. I kept looking, and found another private pet shop that was rumored to sell tarantulas. I called and asked the same question, and got this response…
“We don’t have either of those species, but we have a couple of roseas. We do have a lot of other species available, though.”
Sounded promising, so I went to take a look. They carried approximately 50 different tarantulas, all labeled with the scientific name. However, there were many tanks with no water source at all (and some with cotton balls that had been soaked with water some time ago), many with several dead crickets (which means they do not maintain the cages), and even one tank with a dead tarantula in it. Needless to say, I moved on. I ended up finding two local shops that had a selection of tarantulas that were well taken care of, and the staff members were knowledgeable.
You might ask why I don’t go to some of the big chain pet stores that do sell tarantulas. Several reasons, including the fact that they are importing wild caught tarantulas, whereas MOST tarantulas sold at reputable private pet shops are captive bred. Also, the big chains do not always know the proper way to care for a tarantula, thinking that they should all be kept in the same environment.
Another great option is going online. This will probably be slightly more money that you may want to spend on your first tarantula, but there are some GREAT breeders/dealers out there that can guarantee the quality of your purchase. (Go to my resources page for a list of online dealers.)
WHAT? Okay, so what spider should you get? If you were to ask a number of tarantula hobbyists what species makes the best “beginner” tarantula, my guess is that a majority of them would answer the Chilean Rose Hair (Grammostola rosea).
In my opinion, it is smart to start with something relatively easy to help gain experience. If all goes well and you want your collection to expand, you can move on to other species first. For me, there are a few different things that a beginner should look at. First is the expense of that first spider. Roseas are typically inexpensive to acquire ($20 to $30 for an adult). There are some wonderful species that would make excellent first time tarantulas, but the prices can be intimidating for that first spider.
The second thing to look at is how hardy the species is. You don’t want something that has tricky temperature/humidity requirements. The Chilean Rose Hair is about as tough as they come!
Third, you want a tarantula that is known to be docile and slow moving. Roseas have a good reputation for being very calm spiders, slow moving spiders. Remember, however, that there are always going to be exceptions. (These are wild animals, after all.) Some people in the hobby do not like roseas, claiming they are too common and “boring” for them. However, our rosea is still among one of our favorite (and most friendly) spider in our collection.
If you have the money to spend and want something other than a Chilean Rose Hair, here are some other great “beginner” tarantulas. (You may have to order from a dealer online for these.)
The following information is a basic caresheet for pet tarantulas. You will need to adjust various items, such as substrate depth and humidity levels depending on what species of tarantula you are keeping. Additional research on the internet will help you with specific caresheets. (See the “Resources” page for links.)
Before your tarantula is brought home from the pet store, or delivered from a mail order dealer, there are some things you will want to have ready. Here is a good shopping list to start with:
Temperature: Mid 70’s to 80 is optimal for many tropical species. Many from the Americas can be kept slightly cooler. Remember that too cold and a spider may not eat. Too hot and they may not live. Again, this is a good place where specific species research is helpful.
Humidity: Most desert species will do fine with a water dish to provide enough humidity. Obviously, more tropical species will need your help to keep the levels up. You can do this using a spray bottle filled with distilled water.
Substrates: The big three you will often see are vermiculite, peat moss, and potting soil. Do not use bedding used for hamsters or rabbits, like wood shavings of any kind, paper, corn cob, etc. Remember to find out if your tarantula will want to dig a burrow, of if it will be happy using a provided hide. Those that will want to burrow will need deeper substrate than those that will be content under a piece of cork bark.
Diet: A tarantula will eat almost anything it can overpower. However, that does not mean I would recommend that you start experimenting with random bugs and small woodland animals to give your spider a varied diet! Most tarantulas will do just fine on a diet of crickets, feeder roaches, grasshoppers, etc. (If you are using wild caught bugs, be sure that they have not been exposed to pesticides. This will be passed on to your tarantula.) Some tarantula owners will feel small mice (live or dead) to their tarantulas. Like many things in the hobby, you will find mixed thoughts on this practice.
Feeding: Tarantulas are not like other pets, like dogs or cats. They do not require food daily. In fact, tarantulas have been known to go months without eating. Some tarantulas may even fast for a period of time, which to the new tarantula owner, can cause alarm. As a rule of thumb, offer some food (not a large amount) at least once per week. I would offer the food at night, as tarantulas are nocturnal. Be sure to remove uneaten prey if left overnight.
Tarantulas make their homes in one of two places; in/on the ground, or in trees. Ground dwelling tarantulas are called terrestrial, while tree dwelling tarantulas are called arboreal. If you are purchasing your first tarantula, be sure to do enough research to find out which one your tarantula is, as they each have different caging requirements.
Terrestrial tarantulas are more concerned with the length and width of the cage than height. The general consensus is that the minimum floor space is 1.5 – 2 times the leg span of the tarantula. The height of the cage should be enough that the spider can flip over onto it’s back (for molting). Many people go the inexpensive route and purchase plastic storage containers (shoe/sweater box) and ventilation holes drilled into them. Aquariums are also popular choices, but you must be careful that the tank is not too high. Terrestrial tarantulas will explore their tank, which includes climbing the sides and the lid to the tank. There is a good chance that the spider could lose it’s hold and fall to the cage floor. If the spider is too high off of the ground when it falls, that could spell trouble for the tarantula.
Arboreal tarantulas love to climb and will rarely be seen on the floor of their cage. Because of this, these tarantulas should have a cage with greater height than length or width. Many tarantula keepers will turn an ordinary plastic tank or glass aquarium on end, giving the arboreal spider the vaulted ceiling it was born for.
In either case, you want to be sure that you provide water (in a shallow dish), air (ventilation), either a place to hide (cork bark or half-buried flower pot) or enough substrate to dig a burrow of their own, and food. Decorations for your tarantulas cage are strictly up to your tastes. Believe it or not, your spider doesn’t really care!
Can You Keep More Than One Tarantula in the Same Tank?With the exception of a couple of species that have occasionally been kept successfully in a communal tank, the answer is no. Spiders are territorial and canabalistic. Two tarantulas in one tank will eventually equal one fat spider. 
That would completely depend on many factors, such as your experience level with tarantulas and what you are looking for. Personally, I recommend a hardy, docile species for people’s first tarantula. Grammostola rosea (Chilean rose hair) is usually a great choice because they are inexpensive to boot. It is kind of like someone who wants to own a pet bird. I would recommend they start with a $12 parakeet before they commit to a $500 parrot. Make sure it is for you, that you can handle the responsibility, etc. However, this is one of these questions that can be answered 20 different ways by 20 different people.
Some tropical species of tarantula live an average of 10 to 15 years. Other species, like many of the New World terrestrial spiders, can live over 30 years (females). Compare that to the few months that many common house spiders live, and you’ll see another reason that we consider tarantulas to be amazing!
